Vietnam: An Ethel Travel Guide

Everything you need to know to visit Hanoi and the surrounding area.

Published April 23, 2025

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Vietnam: Travel Guide

1. Recommend a hotel/motel in Vietnam:

We recently spent nine days in beautiful Vietnam, much of it in Hanoi and the surrounding area. When it came to crafting the itinerary, we turned to kimkim. The travel agency is based in the United States but works with local travel companies to create the perfect vacation. Kimkim was reliable and our guide and driver were both the best. In Hanoi, we stayed at the Palago Boutique Hanoi Hotel, which offered a nice breakfast buffet and spacious rooms. From there we traveled to the Pu Luong Nature Reserve, where we stayed at the Pu Luong Natura Bungalows — again, quite beautiful. In Ninh Binh, we stayed at the Lalita Boutique & Spa, which boasts a nice rooftop bar. Another travel agency that will work with you to create an itinerary for your Vietnam vacation is Indochina Voyages.

2. Recommend a restaurant in Vietnam:

In Hanoi, we treated ourselves with a dinner at Madame Hien's. A meal here is definitely a culinary highlight. For a view, check out the Lighthouse Sky Bar & Restaurant and the Ding Doong Restaurant. Other good bets: any restaurant along the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi's historic center. (Do as the locals do and buy an ice-cream cone on Tràng Tiền Street one evening to enjoy as you stroll around the lake.) Meals are inexpensive and you'll be hard-pressed to spend more than $25 on even a very nice dinner.

3. What's a must-see in Vietnam?

First off, a water puppet show! Water puppetry is a uniquely Northern Vietnamese art form, developed more than 1,000 years ago. Watch colorful puppets on a flooded stage at the Lotus Water Puppet Theater on the Hoan Kiem Lake.

In addition, Train Street! I was skeptical ... but what an experience it is to stand on this narrow street as the train whips by you, just inches away from your face. So exhilarating!

In Hanoi, the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology is fascinating. In Ninh Binh, a ride along the Ngo Dong River in a small rowboat is a must. Near the Pu Luong Nature Reserve, a drive along a suspension bridge over the Cham River where you can admire the stunning water wheels is also a must.

A walk through any part of Hanoi's Old Quarter will never disappoint. The area's mix of Vietnamese architecture, green spaces, fascinating shops and fresh-as-it-gets street food are all easily explored on foot.

If you're hungry, the Old Quarter is packed with specialty restaurants and popular stalls. Grab a bowl of bún chả at Bún Chả Hương Liên where President Obama dined, or go for a less crowded alternative at Hàng Quạt. Don't leave without sampling the original egg coffee at Cafe Giang. Another original dish from the Old Quarter is chả cá lá vông, which originated at the Lá Vông restaurant and is a magical blend of fish chunks marinated in turmeric and spices, grilled and served with soft rice noodles, dill and crunchy peanuts.

4. What else makes Northern Vietnam so special?

Enjoy an overnight cruise through Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The boats not only provide meals but also an array of activities, including kayaking, swimming, cooking classes, fishing and Tai Chi. Ha Long Bay is home to over 1,900 towering limestone islands and islets rising from deep emerald waters. The rooms on the boat we took each had private bathrooms and balconies — and even offered hair dryers!

5. What should you avoid when visiting Vietnam?

Just a warning that wine is quite expensive everywhere you go in Vietnam. If you enjoy your drink, buy a bottle at a local shop rather than glasses at a bar or restaurant. Your wallet will thank you. Also, most tourists try to avoid visiting Vietnam between May and October as it's monsoon season. When it comes to eating, don't be afraid to try the street food. It's delicious and you can get full on only $1 or $2. In general, the Vietnamese people are friendly and actually seem to like to have their picture taken. So don't be shy! When visiting any religious/spiritual site, be sure to dress modestly and to keep your voice low. Finally, download the Grab app, which is the dominant ride-hailing app in Vietnam. It offers a variety of services, including car rides, motorbike rides and food delivery.

Shelley Emling is Senior Director, Specialized Media at AARP, and Executive Editor of The Girlfriend, The Ethel, The Girlfriend Book Club, Instagram, The Ethel Circle and The Ethel On-The-Go. Previously she was a longtime foreign correspondent for Cox Newspapers, based first in Miami — covering Latin America and the Caribbean — and then based in London — covering Europe. She's also the author of five books and has three children. She and her husband divide their time between Montclair, NJ and the Catskills. More information can be found at shelleyemling.com.